Insh

William Crammond wrote that, "The church of Insh is one of the most 'primitive' in the country, and is well worth a visit."¹ Many who have visited might perhaps say that he understated things!

The Church is situated on the shore of Loch Insh and is dedicated to St Adamnán (c.625-704), the famous biographer of St Columba of Iona. It is believed that where it is situated - on the top of a wooded knoll - was the site of an earlier 'primitive' chapel, which is still known as Tom Eunan or 'Adamnan's Mound.' It is thought that it has been a place of Christian worship since the seventh century. But even before Christianity arrived, this glacial remnant was believed to be sacred to the local people.

It is believed that the small island just opposite the curch [Tom Dubh {NH 834051}] was once the site of the fort or dun of a notorious Pictish King called Nechtan and there are many occurrences of the name Dunaughton in the district. One of the Kings who is reasonably well known in history is Nechtan (Derelei) who was Pictish High King (Ard Ri) from 706-724AD and it is tempting to link the fort with him. He attempted to gain the friendship of the young Northumbrian King Osred I, who was the adopted son of Wilfrid, Bishop of Northumbria. But, in 711AD, the Northumbrians showed their true feelings to Nechtan and appeared on the Moor of Mannan, led by Berhtfrith, Osred's chief ealdorman. No victory is recorded for either side but it is known that both suffered heavy losses. However, Nechtan was a common Pictish name and we must be wary of drawing any hasty conclusions from the 'thin' historical evidence that is available to us.

In 1226, this church, along with that of Kingussie, were together 'constituted' a prebend of the cathedral at Elgin by the then bishop, Andrew de Moravia.

The present church building is said to date from 1792, so it has itself seen its fair share of history! Renovations were carried out in 1912 and 1963.

Within the building is a most ancient cast-bronze bell which is said to date from the time of Adamnán and also a stone basin which may have been the font of the earliest church. The local people once believed that the bell had healing or magical powers. It was once taken away to Perth (Scone) but, as the story is told, the bell rang out 'Tom Eodhnain' over and over until it finally broke free and flew home!

The settlement at the north end of Loch Insh, where a ferry once crossed the River Spey, was originally called Boat of Insh. When the railway came in 1863 the station (now closed) was named Boat of Insh but, in 1871, the railway company renamed it Kincraig and this was also when the bridge was built. The name of the village followed suite.

In more recent times the church has been given an etched-glass window in one of its gable-ends. This piece of work is very attractive and blends extremely well with the ancient history of the site. Its is the work of Helen Turner of the Edinburgh College of Art and its design is inspired by St. John's Cross on the Island of Hy (Iona) where Adamnán was, himself, abbot from 679-704AD.

The Parish is bounded by the Feshie to the north and the Tromie to the south - both exceptionally attractive rivers. Although lying entirely on the south side of the River Spey, the parish stretches far back into the hills of western Glen Feshie and upper GlenTromie. Many of these lands have been held for generations by the Macpherson-Grant family. There are also close links with the MacPhersons of Invereshie.

Close by the church are the lands of Balnespick {NH 838038}, the name revealing that they were part of the 'lordship' lands of the Bishops of Moray before the Reformation. [Baille-an-easbuig 'the Bishop's township.']

Dr. William Reid noted the occurrence of a fair in the parish called Feil Columcille which may have been held annually on the Saint's 'anniversary' (9th June). He continued by quoting one of the late ministers of the Parish, a Rev. Mr. Munro, who had recounted to him that, "it was customary for the women to appear at this festival dressed in white, in token of their having been baptised; and that an old woman of the district died only a few years ago, aged ninety, who was wont to show off the white dress in which, in her young days, she attended this celebration, and which at last served her for a shroud."^10.

A final story relating to the church is that the local people often referred to it as the Chapel of the Swans. It is recounted that the Loch of Insh was always a favourite stopping-point for flocks of mute swans at migration time. One ancient piece of folklore tells us that Adamnán himself used to go down to the shore of the loch and call the birds to him.

IT IS PERHAPS A SIGN OF THE TIMES BUT IT IS WITH THE DEEPEST SADNESS AND REGRET THAT WE HAVE RECENTLY LEARNED THAT THE CHURCH OF SCOTLAND IS TO PERMANENTLY CLOSE INSH CHURCH FOR WORSHIP IN THE VERY NEAR FUTURE - PERHAPS IN 2025. IT CAN ONLY BE HOPED THAT A SUITABLE USE WILL BE FOUND FOR THE BUILDING AND THAT IT WILL NOT BE ALLOWED TO LAPSE INTO RUIN. IT IS A MOST BEAUTIFULLY EVOCATIVE PLACE.